On so many of my travels, I seem to have collected near-death experiences. In Africa, it was not lions, crocodiles, not the sly leopard, but the cape buffalo who threatened my life. Twice. We had traveled to Ngorongoro Crater, a paradise isolated by two thousand feet of collapsed caldera. Our lodge was situated on the eastern ridge, open-fenced and perched as if to launch itself into the wild beneath it. My sister and I were leaving the dining room after dinner, giggling and chatting our way back to our bungalow. I heard a strange noise off to my right, something crunching, tearing. It persisted, so I turned my head to look. “Oh shit!” The words escaped me before I could even register. The beast started. Our eyes locked. It has been over four years, and I still remember every detail of him. How he was grey and not black, the imperfections in his coat, the gravelly bumpiness of his horns, how a piece of grass hung from his charcoal maw. It’s still crystal clear; it’s still completely frozen in my mind. Seconds, minutes, decades; all could have passed while I stared into this bull’s eyes. Finally he turned his head and went back to eating the grass. My sister and I ran, though we did turn back to see. We wanted to know how close we came. It had been too close.
2008-01-01
1/180 sec, f 6.3, ISO 100, 250 mm





